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Back when the original version of this Marathon Watch OSAR-D watch was being produced, it was never sold to the public. That watch was known as the Marathon SAR-D (“search and rescue, with date”) and is the timepiece that immediately preceded the now iconic Marathon GSAR (“general search and rescue”). The main difference between the two watches is the dial, and more specifically the use of traditional painted or tritium gas tube illumination for the dial. As a supplier of military and professional-use watches, Marathon was quick to employ self-illuminating tritium gas tubes into a host of their products starting…
I am a big fan of the Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition,” but the Black Bay Chrono? Not so much. Neither the black and white versions nor the steel and gold model ever struck a chord with me. And the pink version? Well, once I saw it on a wrist in Geneva, it made me think of a chronograph with a similarly colored dial I like, the Zenith Chronomaster Sport Pink, so appreciated it, but it also wasn’t love at first sight. You can imagine my skepticism, then, when the Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Blue” Boutique Edition was assigned…
—————– If you have to purchase a ball bearing and are given the limits of the various manufacturers, then this defines what you can build, but when you can change the parameters based on another, more important aspect of the watch, this provides more creative freedom. Now this need for engineering freedom may not actually apply in this scenario but it gives a good sense of what Strehler and UhrTeil AG can do by being in control of their own production, and the Sirna is a great example of putting your capabilities to work to create quality engineering. The economies…
Buffy Acacia Stone dials may now be the biggest trend since green dials took off, with everyone from microbrands to high-end independents embracing the variances of natural materials. While we kind of expect to see this sort of experimentation from both ends of the brand size spectrum, a release from Zodiac is almost direct confirmation that stone dials are in the mainstream. It’s not a huge brand itself, but as a subsidiary of Fossil, it’s not exactly a risk taker. The new Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Stone Dial models are limited editions that explore two popular stones: malachite and lapis…
One of the first brands to invert a movement and showcase it on the dial, Glashütte Original just released the PanoLunarInverse, a sibling of the PanoLunarTourbillon and PanoMaticInverse.Like the earlier models, the PanoLunarInverse has key parts of the movement on the dial, including the balance wheel, escapement, and three-quarter plate that’s finished with with pyramid guilloche. In addition, it features the brand’s oversized Panorama date at two o’clock and a large moon phase display.Initial thoughtsOlder Pano models tended to be conservative in style. The PanoLunarInverse, on the other hand, is modern in colour and decoration, setting it apart from its…
Bremont has undergone a drastic brand transformation in the last year or so, moving away from what many would consider their rather reserved British design language to something more daring and youthful. The Terra Nova could really be considered the focal point of this transition, a design nobody was expecting, with its oval cushion case, large stylized Arabic numerals, and sub-dials rivaling the contrast found on some of the most die-hard chronographs on the market. During one of the busiest watch release times of the year, Bremont has quietly unveiled two new variants of the Terra Nova in collaboration with…
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François-Paul Journe – inspired by the greats of watchmaking in-depth feature François-Paul Journe, a superstar within the watchsphere, cites several historical influences that have shaped his ideas and the extraordinary creations he has made. But of those horological luminaries that have ignited Journe’s imagination and passion, three men stand out, namely Berthoud, Breguet and Janvier. Angus Davies looks at the legacy of these remarkable individuals, providing examples of how their creativity has led Journe to invent and make, or as…
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We know Nomos best for its minimalistic, Bauhaus-inspired stainless steel watches. However, the brand has…
Some say destruction highlights transition and can hold a discerning level of beauty. Although you…
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Seiko has an enduring lineup of “greatest hits” dive watches—from the rugged Turtle and Tuna to the angular Samurai. Yet…
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This Laurent Ferrier Tourbillon Grand Sport (“Grand Sport Tourbillon,” as I call it) is an expensive but beautiful and comfortable “stealth wealth” luxury timepiece. It is easy to deride or dismiss this watch if you haven’t gotten to know it and the brand around it. You can certainly go your…
Originally launched by Baume & Mercier in 1973, the Riviera—named after the casual elegance of the French Riviera—was one of the watches that, in the 1970s, contributed to the concept of the ‘luxury steel watch.’Luxury was no longer associated exclusively with precious metals. A steel case with an integrated bracelet…
The Sherpa was a model name in the Ultrasonic series by the Enicar watch company, created to honour the “indefatigable Sherpas” who played a vital role in the 1956 Swiss Expedition to Mount Everest and Lhotse. The expedition, led by Albert Eggler, was equipped with Enicar Ultrasonic watches for timekeeping.…
Another Friday, another list! After last week’s Patek Philippe Nautilus list, it’s time to move on to Rolex. This week, we jump into the world of the vintage models that came before the iconic watches we know today. Some have the same cases and dials with one simple difference: the…
With the new PanoLunarInverse, Glashütte Original brings two enchanting representations of the passage of time on the dial side.In the top left, a miniature starry sky sets the stage for the moon phase display, while in the bottom right, the inverse design of the movement reveals the balance, the watch’s…
The new Berneron Mirage 34 joins last year’s 38mm models in the small brand’s growing lineup. As we’ll see, these aren’t simply downsized editions. Each model showcases a stone dial and a new caliber. Hint: these are my favorite watches of this year so far. Sylvain Berneron is the name…
Everyone likes a good collaboration and Seiko found a cool partner with DENHAM, an Amsterdam-based premium denim/blue jeans maker. The existing Seiko 5 SKX series served as the base for this new SRPL35 limited-edition piece, which brings clear DENHAM inspiration while preserving what makes this Seiko 5 Sports so popular. The…
Headquartered in Hölstein, at the northern edge of the Swiss Jura, Oris sits on the outermost boundary of Switzerland’s traditional watchmaking region. This area had a long history of specialising in affordable pin-lever watches. And although the brand had to reinvent itself, this heritage has naturally shaped Oris’s philosophy of…
IWC Schaffhausen and the German Aerospace Center (DLR) have jointly developed the first watch cases made from ceramic matrix composite (CMC) material.This fibre-reinforced ceramic combines the hardness and scratch resistance of conventional ceramic with additional durability and high tolerance to temperature shocks.Since the 1980s, IWC has built expertise in advanced…
Romaric André, aka seconde/seconde/, is a busy man these days. I have barely recovered from the Christopher Ward Desk Diver, and now he is back with a collab with Spinnaker. It goes to show that the often snobby watch world is looking for some lighthearted fun. Well, lighthearted fun is…